At a time when the world is caught between dealing with the covid-19 pandemic and trying to resume a semblance of normal life, a style trend has emerged that reflects the concurrent optimism and anxiety of this time: pastel and sorbet shades. Clothing design at the moment is somber and pared-back but by compensating for the lack of glamour and energy, pastel and sorbet shades stand bright without leaning into either side. The shows from Spring/Summer 2020–2021 editions of the Paris and Milan fashion weeks had a fair a show of them. Lounge lists down some that caught the eye:
A brand that can find delightful, on-the-nose humour even in the toughest of times, Moschino’s resort collection was full of the most obviously happy design elements—such as polka dots, smiley faces and peace signs—against light hues of pale pink, light yellow and sorbet orange. The silhouettes ran strikingly between those of womenswear from the 1960s and 1980s in terms of baby-doll dresses, slick suits, rouched dresses and pussy-bow blouses.
Marant’s take on the 1980’s sportswear aesthetic for her menswear collection came very soft-handed. The coats, knitwear and separates look delicate in light-to-dark shades of blue, pink and purple with a suppleness in tailoring which, shot against the Centre National de la Danse, a brutalist institution on the outskirts of Paris, creates a lovely juxtaposition. The play of colour and pattern—ikats, checks and florals—add a feminine touch as well.
Homme Plissé Issey Miyake
The brand put out a short film to present its menswear collection. Entitled Meet Your New Self, the show has models dancing around, even playing basketball wearing the new collection. Known for its knife-sharp pleats, as the clothes hang ever-so-delicately off a clothes rack. Very simple coats, jackets, tunics, trousers and shorts have been engineered in Miyake’s signature pleats. The colours—a mix of primary and pastel shades and some glitchy prints and tie-and-dyes—were as lightweight as the clothes themselves. It was no wonder that the video ended with the words, “For a future that is healthy, bright, and full of hope.”
Shot against the Le Palais Idéal near Lyon, Lanvin’s collection had several dark and boldly art-deco printed clothes, but there were also pastel touches of pale blue, light yellow and light beiges to balance all that richness. The underlining theme was of a style that didn’t overpower with a throwback to the 1920s, when the fashion house really found its footing. At a time of worldwide turbulence due to World War 1, the house had found some beauty before and is hoping to do the same again through a collection—consisting of suits, coats, dresses, dresses, shirts and other separates—that finds its references of lightness that are relevant again.
While the brand’s usual go-to glamour and energy wasn’t obvious in this collection, Balmain refreshed its own core values to channel sharp silhouettes inspired from the 1960s and 1970s, but more relaxed in terms of colours. Apart from a slew of pastel shades in peach, lilac, sea-foam green and pink, there were also some embellishments on women’s suits, dresses and separates. Playful elements ranged from being over-sized to tight to ruffled while patterns of glitchy checks, polka dots, and bold piping on the jackets created a retro look, while the au courant colours updated them.